Tiny. Tiny. Lightmeter

I have two cameras, which I find sometimes are on the verge of either not so accurate at times (Mamiya 6), or perhaps the one who benefits the most - the Hasselblad XPan - stop working in light you find inside a café, with it's slow ƒ4.0 lenses + 1 stop center gray filter = f 5.6 giving up at moderate low light levels (around EV 5-6?)

That is where the tiny shoe mounted lighter comes into play - giving support in situations where it's either the camera's has inaccurate or missing readings.

That's the Reveni Labs Light Meter

It is 125 CAD (Canadian Dollars) + 20 CAD shipping + 25% Swedish tax + Swedish postal fee = 1400 SEK, or 150 Euro. (only royal names are longer compared to the addition of fees involved here)

I'll end up around 1400 SEK (Swedish Kronor), or 138 €. That is actually steep... - and there are chinese knock offs for 1/3rd of the - but I am skeptic about those, because they use unfiltered OLED displays without anything - which are very hard to read as soon you are above lightlevel EV 12, e.g. in moderate light outdoor conditions. They design is larger / bulkier, the light sensitivity is smaller and the range, too. There are at least 3-4 knock off models - but I consider the developer Matt Bechberger to be a solid gentleman, and a person who is really deeply involved into photography. Great guy for sure !

So, I support him instead.

 

Here the Video interview
with the Developer behind Reveni Labs Light meter, from 8 mar 2020.

 

    

 

 

Reveni Labs Light meter

So, I decide for the smallest of them, the Reveni Labs Light meter. It's just so cute, barely in the way on the camera - and the range is wide (EV 0.5 to EV 20 @ ISO 100), range ISO 1 to 12800, aperture ƒ 0.7 to ƒ 1024 and time goes down to 8 minutes (!) (both 8 min as well ƒ1024 is good for pinhole cameras with their tiny, tiny aperture - and I have gotten several of them, and once is something like ƒ312 )

The power comes from a single button LR44 battery. I also like that in low light, you can see illuminated numbers on the back display. I like that very much !

So, I will give it a shot , with the tax money I get back in a week.

I am not sure if the Mamiya 6 really needs a light meter - because it has one built-in. But I like the idea of having a feedback (second) light meter on top, to be sure. Because I had many issues with under exposed images in a rather erratic way. Therefore I add the mini light meter on top, to get a "second opinion" reading. Much better, when the experience has been too many erratic exposed negatives.

 

 

Mamiya C330s ?

A third camera that could benefit from the light reader, is the Mamiya C330s - but that is in Sicily and not to my disposal... (And I am not sure if it is practical [in real life] with this little light meter stuck on the side)

It has a flash hot shoe on the side. The company sells a configuration thingy that allows the light meter to be installed to that it stays in a horizontal position. Same goes for other medium format cameras like Mamiya RZ67 for example, where the hot shoe is side mounted.

However when I go out with the Mamiya RZ67, it is with big tripod, and external, professional light meter. It is not a walking around camera, really, so I see no direct benefit form the tiny light meter.

 

 

1 May 2021

 

Beautiful, tiny, nifty - and very accurate. You even get a certificate of the manual testing (in my case it is set on -0.1 EV).

I also noticed... *LOL* that the internal lightmeter of the Mamiya 6 MF is EXACTLY showing what the little Reveni Labs lightmeter shows. So, the internal one of the Mamiya is actually working very well. (I think the problem in the past, several years ago, was that i had so many issues with faulty, short lasting Kodak X-TOL developer, making the negatives look thin.

I ran into so many issues, that it took several summers, for me to figure things out. Anyway, I am now using the classic old Kodak D76 - which simply is RELIABLE, and not that shit called Kodak X-TOL (albeit the results are good with X-Tol). But you MUST make SURE, that the water is free from iron. If you have iron in your water, the concentrate of X-TOL will not last very long (at all), and you run into many issues, which looks as if you are underexposing and/or under developing your films.

Very, very annoying.

So.

Both lightmeters work excellent. Of course, since I often take shots in the evening with tungsten light, you need to remember, that the ISO of the film is slightly less sensitive, plus that the motive contrast in such light often is lower than normal. And therefore you negatives look thinner than normal.

Ah. Beautiful, tricky analog photography... so many issues to run into *LOL*

 

 


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