There is nothing special about the above two images. Both are taken with a Fujicolor Superia 400 film, and the huge Pentax 67 II camera, together with the very bright Takumar 105mm f 2.4 lens.

 

Blue Hour

One in low light without tripod, and therefore fuzzy - while the twylight gave a strange sheen; very bluish light from the clear, dark blue sky, while Sal who was deeply tanned and had just arrived from Sicily, got a strong warm, reddish tone on his kind. To me the image breathes like late warm summer nights only the month of August can do that here in Sweden

 

Bright daylight

in strong clear daylight, demonstrating the lovely optical properties of the Takumar 105mm f 2.4 lens - which very shallow depths of sharpness - making it into one kind of a lens for large medium format cameras. At the same time, the image looks as if taken with a digital camera. Can you tell the difference ? I can't. I mean, if I didn't know that it was taken with a traditional film camera... I would have thought it was made with a digital camera.

This also gives an good impression of that my present workflow, the reproduction of color negative films - really works wonderfully.

 

Pentax 67 II Medium Format Camera

the big bulky Pentax 67 II makes excellent images. Those are really of very high quality. Kind of funny, that I only used it the most after I bought it - but then it didn't get used so much (due to the many troubles I had with film in many ways). Now after 5 years, I get to taste the fruits of that work from long time ago. And i am delighted. And the Pentax 67 lenses are superb !

I've never got so fine, natural hlightlight and brilliance in my (film based) color images... There was always something off - and some motives where more or less hopeless to get "clean".

My Mamiya 6 MF rangefinder camera, always has been a problem child from the very beginning. It seems that I got light leaks of some kind back then in 2017 and later. It had so many quirks that I never truly felt it worked reliable for me. Perhaps i got a shabby one, a waste of money. I don't know. And I have not decided if I will ever buy another body - most likely not. Instead I use the one I have, and fix what i can find to fix. I have already adjusted the focus, and it is almost perfect.

Which is a pity given the very high quality reputation that camera enjoys. Today those cameras are even more expensive. Well even the Pentax 67 II has gone up in price considerably. I mean those kinds of mediumformat cameras get fewer and fewer after decades... Things break, chip, get spoiled.


 

More scanning

So, the real works - starts now. I mean going through the wealth of color negative films - I have tons of them after many decades. When I work now, the negatives not only enjoy the highest quality of reproduction, they also get time stamped accordingly - so that after 20 years, my physical archive finally gets in order. Labeling each sheet with a ID number made out of date, film and camera, and the contents. Looks very nice ! At the same time that ID number is the connection o the digital archive of the existing scanned images.

Feel like a lifetime work, if you ask me. How long have I been at it ? Well since 1985 at least. That's 37 years of photography.

 

What about old color negatives ?

That - I have not tested yet with my latest setup (e.g. Negative Lab Pro software). I don't really have any good restoration software. Kodak used to have Photoshop plug-ins in the late 90s (ROC in particularly, but they also had SHO and GEM). The ROC was an excellent helper in correcting faded color images.

However - those never got updated and have passed (more or less) out of existence. The latest version was a 32-bit Mac Intel version - so it still must have worked up until Mac High Sierra.

I'll guess have to the restoration manually. But first I need to see, how color negatives from the 80s turn out with the new setup and software. Then I'll see what I need to do.

 

Dust specks ?

Well that I always have to do manually when using a digital camera as a "scanner" for negatives.
Always manually. There is no true solution for removing dust from negatives via software. Or at least those that exist ain't any good really (from what I understood from reading about it)

 


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