The 150 MP Vertex method is perhaps an overkill. It is clear to me, that even a 51 MP single-shot mode with the Fujifilm GFX 50s II is totally enough. Has plenty of details in portraits - probably more than needed. Plus that with Photoshop AI i can extend the frame of a shot. This works actually well - when you have blurry backgrounds. Then it makes sense. Otherwise, i find the Photoshop AI far too low resolution.
It is however pretty good in extending blurry areas in a natural way. And this way, i can simulate a "6x6" quadratic shot, instead of going down to 1:1 mode in the Fuji GFX. (Well it depends what is in the frame). If there are plenty of details, I wouldn't use the extended mode via Photoshop AI - because the low res areas then turn out really ugly.
Poor Sal
He is being my testing guy. It is WINTER TIME in Scandinavia which means, that with all the lack of light up here, even the dark-skinned Sicilian Sal turns a lot paler in his skin.
Just checking
Anyway I just wanted to see, if it is possible to extend a vertical portrait images, with help of Photoshop AI, into a classic "Hasselblad 6x6" (Classic Square Format) type of portrait. Now the AI works pretty well, as long there aren't many details nor any sharp details attached !
Trying to learn
I am also gradually trying to learn to work in color, when it comes to mediumformat, studio-lit portraits. The skin tones, the contrast, and the details. I realize that this isn't yet my specialty really, and i gradually change the color nuances - because i realize later, after a break, when a face, color or skin looks a bit off. Sometimes I don't know where to exactly put the skin tone... towards yellow, or towards a cooler nuance.
So, it is a learning process.
And when it comes to Black & White portraits, here too I am at times struggling with the contrast of the human skin. I guess I want to make it look like the old traditional way with analog film. And yet, being a sharp digital image, things do look different. I also struggle with the Fujifilm GFX RAW files quite often... not exactly knowing how much or little to fiddle with the contrast, in order to look natural.
Again. It is a learning process. In general i have to work quite a lot with Fujifilm GFX files - because I don't seem to get the hang of them. It find it easier with Canon RAW or Olympus RAW file. However the GFX files have so much leeway in the shadows, that i sometimes don't know how or what do with it (and without looking too overworked, I mean)
Easier ?
Naturally, shooting without the rotating Vertex Method - instead just shooting in natual single-shit 33x44mm GFX mode (like the camera was designed to do) - makes things a lot easier, including composing the photo frame.
Also movements of the model are not as crucial. Albeit since i adapt manual lenses - any movement will of course mean that for example, a face dives out of focus and become blurry. So, my models have to sit relatively still (more or less) *LOL*
I kind of LOVE to work more slowly. With models not moving all the time. I love to sculpure with rather simple lights, the person in front of me - and freeze her or his action in the moment i feel it suits their appereance together with the light (or whatever theme one wants to achieve).
This modern fast moving, contstantly changing position - does not appeal to me. However, people in front of the camera TODAy are very different from people 30 years ago. Back then they where sitting still - and you would gradually work together with positions (and both get warmer in the inter action). Now it seems like people are more like ... impatient beings, thinking they have to constantly switch position, look and movements.
Not my thing, really.
I guess it is now MY turn to be old fashined.
How the duck did that happen ?!?!
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